Thinking of buying an RO System

Zebra Pleco

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I don't want to hijack this thread for my own use, but what is the TDS etc coming out of the R/O unti and the HMA Unit, and then what is it when added to tank, is this what you use the needle valve to control (TDS) or is it used to adjust PH etc.

Lastly since there is nothing added, is the buffering a problem, will my Ph vary?
 

macvsog23

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Hi

The valve controlls the HMA
the HMA will buffer the RO
the TDS can de ajusted with the valve.
PH should be netural or around 7
Add almond leves to make it acidic. ie drop the PH

One point is that the RO unit will produce more water in the summer as the water is warmer. so you will need to ajust the valve.

Regards Bob
 

mike0605

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I would really love to understand this but I don't haha feel really stupid now.

So do you guys tend to adjust the PH or is 7 fine for breeding most

Does this needle valve only let so much water through? and as both Ro and HMA systems are running simultaneously and the valve appears to be connected to both filters does this allow an equal or approximately equal amount of hma filtered water and ro water to pass into the barrel?

Just thinking on would this work as good?

Work out the desired water required for water changes, maybe make up a bit extra to be safe.

Say you need 180 litres (approx) make up 200 litres

What I mean is approx are there any ratios that would give the desired tds i.e. 60 ro 40 tap water, 50/50, 80,20? and what is the desired tds for plecs? or does this vary?

I appreciate everyones tap water varys but would this be a good way to experiment and once it is right stick at those ratios/ exact litres?

Hope this makes sense.
 

thegeeman

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Apr 21, 2009
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Dont feel stupid Mike.......Thats my job:D

The needle valve controls the amount of water I mix into the RO. If I wind the needle valve all the way in it stops the flow of HMA and so I just get pure RO out of the end of the pipe. If I wind the valve fully open I then get TDS of around the 400 mark which is just under my normal reading of tapwater (420ish). I keep all my fish at around the 200-250 mark....why I dont know but I seem to be doing alright:). I get the required TDS by adusjting the needle valve and then testing the water going into the barrel using a TDS meter.

The PH is always 7 but I lower this by having bogwood/almond leaves/Alder cones in the tanks. Its normally around the 6.5 mark..

I did start out breeding just using my tapwater and Prime dechlorinator but as I live round the corner from macvsog23 and saw the results he was getting with a simillar set up I decided to give it a try and touch wood it works very well for me and I dont have to mess around with adding minerals back into neat RO to get the desired water quality.

I only use RO/HMA as Bristol water is seriously disgusting and stinks of chlorine all the time. Lots of areas around the country probably wouldnt need to use this method because their tapwater is of good quality and pretty soft.

I am well out of my depth now so Mac or DW can answer the other bit.

Cheers

thegeeman
 

macvsog23

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I use the needle valve to control the HMA
It is a bit hit and miss but once its right it works
Forget PH you have no control at this stage over PH once you have hit neutral it will become unstable on the RO side it is the MHA that will buffer it.
You can them use peat or any from of Acid creating media to bring the PH down.
 

mike0605

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Thanks Guys I get it now (sort of) :lol:

I just have to get the equipment now then I am sure I will need to ask a bit more but thanks for all your help

atm I have got 4 wild L134 from pier aquatics in my four footer doing 10 -15% daily tapwater changes and they seem really happy feeding on live bloodworm, brineshrimp and a mix of veggies but want to get onto ro as soon as possible.

I bought one one day and had to go back for another 3 and when I went back I got what I was advised was 2 females and a male so providing they were sexed right which I am hoping they were I have 2 females 1 male and 1 other haha.

So fingers crossed these will be the first of the more difficult L's that i breed :D
 

816johnv

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Great info Bob/Gee

If anyone is interested Bob and gee will happily visit you and setup this system free of Charge :lol::lol::lol:
 

macvsog23

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Naturaly john is going to provied transport and free food.
Just send him an e mail with your adress and the date you wish him to bring us to visit.
Just to show i am not a sponging bar stewared i will bring my own fags.

Regards Bob
 

dw1305

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Hi all,
I am well out of my depth now so Mac or DW can answer the other bit.
No, I don't need to add anything, but I can explain the scientific bit.
Lastly since there is nothing added, is the buffering a problem, will my pH vary?
It certainly will as you approach 0KH, at this point pH is a meaningless measurement. Have a look at this post: <http://www.plecoplanet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6901> (and links in it) for an explanation of why (it contains a bit of chemistry, but unfortunately there is no way around that).

Water
Bob and G have "Bristol Water" water, which is coming from either the Sharpness canal (River Severn) or most likely the Chew & Blagdon lakes. All of this water is naturally carbonate (limestone) rich (has a high KH), and also contains an amount of nutrients - NPK etc. (from agriculture mainly, it is "eutrophic" to use the technical term).

I visited the Bristol Water site and got this print out for "BS14".
Supply zone: Hengrove and Whitchurch <http://www.bristol-water.co.uk/environment/waterQualityInYourArea.asp>

pH pH 7.57
Alkalinity mg/l CaCO3 157
mg/l HOC3 191
Calcium mg/l Ca 94
Magnesium mg/l Mg 6.5
Total Hardness mg/l CaCO3 262

Degrees Hardness
Clark° (UK) 18
French° 26
German° 16 (dKH)

The important bits is the hardness 16dKH, virtually all from CaCO3.
Full report is here: <http://www.bristol-water.co.uk/pdf/environment/waterQuality/220.pdf>.

So this is their original water and as they explained the RO and HMA filters then do different things.

RO - (Reverse Osmosis) Filter
The 3 stage RO unit removes everything from the water and you are left with pure H2O (so just H+ and OH- ions in a ratio of 1:1). Pure H2O is an electrical insulator, so if we pass an electrical current through it (which is what the TDS meter does) none will arrive at the meter to be measured. The technical explanation is
"Conductivity is the ability of a material to conduct electric current. The principle by which instruments measure conductivity is simple - two plates are placed in the sample, a potential is applied across the plates (normally a sine wave voltage), and the current is measured. Conductivity (G), the inverse of resistivity (R) is determined from the voltage and current values according to Ohm's law.

G = I/R = I (amps) / E (volts)

Since the charge on ions in solution facilities the conductance of electrical current, the conductivity of a solution is proportional to its ion concentration.
A bit technical, but a picture is better than a thousand words, and this is what that means:



As you can see the relationship is linear for salts and slightly more complex for strong acids, but for weak acids, like the humic acids from Indian almond leaves, peat or alder cones we can assume it will be a straight line as well.

The neat RO has no buffering and the addition of any acid, however weak will cause the pH to fall, potentially to very low levels. Exactly the same would apply to any alkali it will cause the pH to rise in the same manner. If we had a situation where we had changing levels of CO2 and O2 (in a planted tank perhaps) the pH could fluctuate wildly from acid to alkaline.
If you ignore the pH readings (this was for salt water) this graph shows what I mean, the high photosynthesis rate of the plankton depletes the CO2 and saturates the water with O2 and the pH rises, at night CO2 levels rise from respiration and no O2 is evolved and the pH falls:
.

HMA - (Heavy Metal Axe) filter.
To get around these buffering problems you need a source of KH, Bob and G get this from their naturally hard "Bristol Water" tap water, the reason for the HMA filter is that it then removes both nutrients (NPK etc) and pollutants (heavy metals, chlorine, pesticide traces) from the water, but it what it doesn't do is remove or alter the hardness.

All you have to do then is get a mix of HMA and RO water that your fish thrive in, and measure the TDS. In this case we know that the TDS is largely a measure of the dissolved calcium carbonate (because we've removed everything else with the 2 filters). Add the needle valves and you can get any water you want by changing the ratio of RO:HMA, and if you want soft, low pH, low conductivity water you can add some weak humic acids from Indian Almond leaves etc. Sheer genius.

The only other thing to note is that: If you have different tap water with low levels of carbonates (hardness) their method will not work in the same way, and you will need to use RO buffering salts (Na2OH, shell grit, MgCO3 etc.) to add the necessary KH .

cheers Darrel
 
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macvsog23

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What can I say spot on made a lot of sense to me.
The visit to the Bristol water site would have been interesting do they have a suggestions box?:lol:

Basically you have put all the witchcraft that myself and G use in to a scientific explanation.

Quite smart and very useful.

Funny how with no tecnical knowlage we have hit on the right path driven by ourr love of fish? just shows what can happen.
 

dw1305

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Hi all,
The visit to the Bristol water site would have been interesting do they have a suggestions box?
Sort of:
For customers that wish to have a printout sent of the water quality results in their area for the current year, or who have a general question on water quality please email: customer.services@bristolwater.co.uk or write to:

Customer Services:
Bristol Water plc
PO Box 218
Bridgwater Road
Bristol
BS99 7AU
Tel: 0845 702 3797
Funny how with no technical knowlage we have hit on the right path driven by our love of fish? just shows what can happen.
I think it shows that practical experience beats everything else hands down.

It is, however, a strange one in a variety of ways, the very thing that makes the Bristol Water unsuitable for breeding soft water fish in is the hardness, but once you have the 2 filters working together it is actually to your advantage in that it gives you an easy, entirely safe way of adding the KH back without having to muck about with re-mineralising salts etc.

cheers Darrel
 

macvsog23

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Hi all,
Sort of:

I think it shows that practical experience beats everything else hands down.

It is, however, a strange one in a variety of ways, the very thing that makes the Bristol Water unsuitable for breeding soft water fish in is the hardness, but once you have the 2 filters working together it is actually to your advantage in that it gives you an easy, entirely safe way of adding the KH back without having to muck about with re-mineralising salts etc.

cheers Darrel

It is almost as if nature was saying you can crack it just think about it?
Humans the organisam with the most powerful computer.
I must admit the key was the valve
 

Zebra Pleco

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Hi Darrel, how or where did you get the water paramaters from, I tried looking here:
Check your local water quality: http://www.dwqr.org.uk/map
But it only gives me information on
Coliforms
E.coli
Colour
Turbidity
Hydrogen Ion (pH)
Aluminium
Iron
Manganese
Lead
Trihalomethanes (THMs).

I assume its somewhere on the ScottishWater website, my postcode is AB45 3ZE if that helps, locate the information.

I have thought in the past of writting to them to get the above details, but have never got round to it. (lol too lazy)
 

Zebra Pleco

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Just contacted Scottish Water, the guy there was very helpful, its just a shame I didn't know what too ask, but found out this information, if it means anything to you lot. Basically I use tap water with API 6.5 in it to remove contaminants etc.

The water in my area is "Moderately Soft Water" ?????
34.5 express Calcium
86.2 express cal carbonate
0.9 express "expemillivolves" (didn't hear properly, even after I asked him to repeat it)

TDS info he never had, but I have a TDS meter on its way, as with all fish owners, just want the best for my fish, but do understand too much fuss is just as bad as too little, so want to get this right.
 

mike0605

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Thanks everyone, great scientific info Darrel :thumbup:

Anyone got any pics of the filters working/parts? I would really like to see how it all fits together having the two filters running so I know I am doing it right when gathering the various parts

thanks :)
 

Zebra Pleco

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dw1305

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Hi all,
Stuart the "0.9 express "expemillivolves"" sounds like it was the conductivity reading, to get to TDS from the conductivity (in microsiemens) you need to divide by 0.64 (100 microS = 64ppm TDS).

If it was 0.9 milliS that would be 900 microS, but because your water was soft that sounds much too high, so it may have been 0.09 which would be 90 microS.

The good news is that I if it is 90microS (~50ppm TDS) think that you just need a HMA filter, as it sounds like your water is pretty pure all ready. The HMA would be useful as phosphate compounds will have been added to the tap water to control lead uptake from the pipes etc. It will also catch any copper that may have come from the pipes if the water is below pH7.

An RO unit would still be of use if you have one, and one advantage is that you would get very long life from it, and little rejected water, because there are so few minerals initially.

If you do use RO, the important bit is the low carbonate value, this means that you would have to re-mineralise your water with some carbonate if you used RO, rather than adding in some tap water like Bob does. You could buy "RO right" or make your own from a recipe, if you keep planted tanks this would be a good one <http://www.jsctech.co.uk/theplantedtank/RO.htm> (or add a small amount of Oyster shell grit to the system somewhere).

cheers Darrel
 
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mike0605

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I am sorry I asked for that link haha

could the waste water from the ro be used as the addative to the ro filtered water?

Would this just involve adding the needle valve to the waste pipe coming from the ro system?

thanks