Why test kits can save your fishes' lives
Why test kits can save your fishes' lives
Regular water tests are essential for all fishkeepers, not only at the start of your aquarium's life, but also later on. Here's why...
Copyright © Practical Fishkeeping
How much are the fish in your aquarium worth? Not just the monetary value, but also in terms of emotional value, we are all very fond of our fish after all, and particularly those we may perceive as having distinct "personalities".
So how much do you value the lives of the fish you keep? No doubt the answer to this will be "a lot" as our hobby is all about keeping live fish, not dead ones!
But it's amazing how many fishkeepers are reluctant to fork out the money to buy essential test kits, even when using such kits could save the lives of all your fish.
New set-ups
When you set up a new aquarium with a new filter, there will be none of the beneficial bacteria present that convert ammonia, produced by the fish, decaying food and plant matter etc., into nitrite and then into the less toxic nitrate. This process, called the nitrogen cycle, is essential if the fish in your tank are going to survive. Stick them in a tank with a new filter and the toxins are likely to build up to the point where the fish die before the filter has the chance to mature. This is known as "new tank syndrome".
The best way to mature your filter is to use a filter maturing agent, which is available from your aquatic shop, and then to monitor the water in the aquarium with test kits every couple of days during the maturation period so you can keep an eye on what's happening.
The first thing you'll see is that the ammonia level will begin to rise, soon going sky-high.
Then you'll start to get a nitrite reading as the bacteria begin to multiply - the bacteria use the ammonia as food, turning it into nitrite in the process. When this happens you'll see the ammonia level beginning to drop off and the nitrite getting high before more bacteria start to turn the nitrite into less harmful nitrate. Eventually the nitrite level will drop. When it reaches zero, it's safe to add the first few fish.
This maturation period can take a few weeks and every tank is different, so while one may mature and be ready for fish in three weeks, others can take a month, six weeks, or even longer!
So how can you tell what stage your tank is at without testing the water? The answer is, you can't. And monitoring it this way is the only way you can be sure it's safe for your fish. Add them to the tank when the ammonia or nitrite levels are high and they'll either become ill very quickly, or die. That's why we never recommend the old-fashioned and rather cruel method of adding a few hardy fish to mature the filter, such fish are exposed to high levels of toxins, which is likely to result in ill-health (or death), and sick or diseased fish aren't the best start with a new tank.
Once the filter is ready, add a few fish at a time, say two or three every week - keeping a check on the ammonia and nitrite levels in between. At any sign of a problem, carry out a water change. Don't be impatient, stocking slowly is worth it to avoid any water quality issues.
It's also important to check the pH in a new set-up so that you can discuss with your retailer the best fish to suit your aquarium, or whether you need to be extra careful about how you acclimatise them when you get them home.
Mature aquariums
But surely you don't have to test the water if the tank is mature! Well actually, yes, you most definitely should. Testing your water regularly and making a note of the results can alert you to any changes before they have the chance to turn into problems. Make it part of your routine to test the water before you carry out your regular water changes, and definitely if your fish are acting differently.
However, while many experienced fishkeepers can tell if there's a problem just by looking at their fish, some things creep up on you.
One of the biggest problems in mature set-ups is nitrate. Yes, it's far less dangerous than ammonia and nitrite, but the trouble with nitrate is that it often begins to rise over time, and if you don't keep a regular check on your water quality, you may not realise this until it gets to a point where it gets so high that it starts to cause problems.
One area where nitrate can cause serious trouble is with new fish. All the fish in your set-up will appear to be happily swimming about, eating well and looking OK, but when you add new fish, they seem to be fine for a few days and then they stop eating and die, usually in the space of about a week.
You might blame the retailer for selling you a dodgy fish, or put it down to bad luck but what you really should do at this point is check the nitrate level of your water. Chances are, it will be high.
So why are your other fish OK? Well, that's because the nitrate has built up very gradually, over a period of time, and they have become accustomed to it. This doesn't mean they like the water conditions, however. They have just learned to live with it in the long term it could shorten their lives, cause deformities and even put a strain on their immune systems leading to an outbreak of disease like whitespot.
All in all, it's probably a good idea to test your water before you purchase a new fish.
Nitrate is also popular with algae - a high nitrate level can lead to undesirable algae growth.
If your nitrate level gets high, you need to look at increasing the frequency of your water changes or the amount you change each time (we recommend a 25% water change every fortnight, but if you have large, messy fish or sensitive species like Discus, you may need to change more than this).
Also check that you're not overfeeding or overstocking. It might also be worth checking the nitrate level of your tapwater. If your maintenance regime is OK, they should be about the same - if the level in your tank is higher, this could indicate the need to up your change regime. As a guide, aim for levels of less than 40ppm for tropical freshwater fish and below 15ppm if you're keeping marines.
There's a handy water change calculator on the PFK website which tells you how much water to change based on the nitrate level. Go to the Tools section.
So what are the vital test kits?
We would strongly advise every fishkeeper to have at least the following test kits:
• Ammonia
• Nitrite
• Nitrate
• pH
You can buy them either individually or as part of a Master test kit, which often works out cheaper.
Many retail outlets will test your water for you � some free of charge. But remember that if you have a problem when the shops are closed, you won't be able get it tested.
It's always a good idea to have test kits handy and get into the habit of using them regularly, why not stick some on your Christmas list? You owe it to your fish!
Testing, testing
It is essential to test your aquarium water every few days in a new set-up until the filter has properly kicked in. We would also recommend that all fishkeepers test their water as part of their regular maintenance regime.
But it's also a good idea to test your water if...
• You have more than one fish die for no apparent reason, or you lose two or three over a few days.
• Your fish appear to be behaving strangely.
• Your fish stop eating.
• You have an outbreak of disease in the aquarium.
• New fish die within a week or so of purchase.
• You have a power cut that lasts for longer than three or four hours (it's worth monitoring your water for a few days afterwards, too � and it's essential if the power is off for 12 hours or more).
In all cases where there's a high reading, particularly of ammonia and/or nitrate, we recommend a water change of 30% (or up to 50% in extreme cases). Then you should monitor the conditions and take steps to determine the cause of the problem.
